Joana: The basic principals might be the same, but you may need to seek specific instructions for your brand of camera as they’re all manufactured a little differently.

===Prep===
Never work on a camera in a carpeted room as small screws inevitably drop and they will never be found.
Clear a large, clean table with a high-intensity lamp
Get a piece of paper and pen and write down every step so that you can reverse them to reassemble
Draw a diagram of the front and back of the camera and write down every screw that is removed and note its location.
Inspect every screw as it comes out and compare it to the others.
There are typically 3 different kinds of screws: short fine machine thread, longer fine machine thread, and coarse plastic threads.
At first glance they all look the same, and the differences are subtle.
The EX-Z1000 does not hav the short fine thread but has the other 2

===Tools===
camera screwdriver
plastic pry tool
hemostat
dental picks

===Legend===
BLT/B – back left top/bottom
BRT/B – back right top/bottom
BCT/B – back center top/bottom
RT/C/B – right top/center/bottom (from back)
LT/C/B – left top/center/bottom (from back)
FLT/B – front left top/bottom
FRT/B – front right top/bottom
FCT/B – front center top/bottom
TL/R – top left/right (from back)
XL/R – bottom left/right (from back)

===Procedure===
Remove Back Cover (Screws 1-5)
Remove Back by sliding pry tool along left side
These cases snap together, and if you pry using force then you will rip the snaps off
It takes a lot of patience to get the hang of it.
Slide the tool along the edge pressing in and as you encounter snaps they should unhook
TR plastic bracket – may have some adhesive tape, pry gently to see
Remove front cover (Screws 6-9)
(i didn’t take good notes here so don’t have locations)
pry left side
Remove right side bracket (Screws 10-11)

Ready to remove LCD
LCD and backlight are held together with tabs on their brackets, don’t pry them apart.
There’s a bit of adhesive that holds them down, carefully pry them from the body from the left side
Follow the ribbon cable and see that it folds under from the bottom
then threads under the bracket on the right into a connector on the front.
Remove foam tape from ribbon connector
Carefully pry up black plastic from connector to release ribbon cable
Once released, ribbon cable easily slides out from connector

Separate LCD from backlight
Carefully separate LCD from backlight by springing the bracket snaps with a dental pick.
Be careful of backlight wires as they are still attached to the body.
Replace broken LCD with new one and snap to backlight frame
Note that my replacement unit (#2621) was slightly different than the one it replaced (#262).
Cable was longer and ribbon connector paths were different, but it still worked.

Install new LCD
Thread ribbon cable through right bracket and around to front connector.
Insert ribbon into connector and carefully press locking bar down
Replace foam tape.

Reassemble case
Replace right bracket (screws 10-11)
Align buttons on top with holes
Replace front (screws 6-9)
Replace Back (screws 1-5)
right side first, then strap and TR corner,
align top clips, top plastic piece
press down and snap together
this is a trick step because you are trying to keep TR corner, strap and top aligned

===Screw Order===
–Back Cover
1 XCB – coarse
2 XL – fine
3 RB – fine
4 RT – fine
5 TL – fine
–Front Cover
6 XCF – coarse
7 TL – fine
8 LC – fine
9 BTL – fine
–Right Side Bracket
10 RB – coarse
11 RT – fine

sydney: Please take a closer look before trying to call me out on this. The black camera had both the screen and the protective plastic (which is glued to the back of the case) broken. When I did this, I decided to just use the back case piece from the silver camera because it was easier and I liked the hybrid two-tone camera in black and silver. The pictures in the post show that if you look closely enough. I’m sure how you could make the mistake. The fixed camera still works great, so if you want some video proof, let me know. =)